Illus 126 Removing Starter Clutch

Note: Instructions fo^- rer-oving starter clutch are included with Harley-Davidson starter clutch and mainshaft ball bearing puller. Part No. 12737-43.

Removing Shifter Fork and Shaft AssembSy

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 123)

7. Shifter fork shaft (98), is held in position by a set screw (99), head of which will be found in top cover joint face of transmission case (at right end of shaft). With set screw removed, shaft can be driven out by means of a drift inserted in hole provided for that purpose in starter cover joint face of transmission case. Note rubber oil seal (97) assembled in groove on left end of shaft. CAUTION: Bear in mind that shifter fork assemblies (85, 86 or 87) are not interchangeable; note exact arrangement of parts before disassembling. This precaution will save needless gauging and adjusting when reassembling. If inspection shows fork assemblies are not damaged or worn it will not be necessary to disassemble them.

Removing Countershaft Gear Assembly

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 121 and 122)

8. Remove countershaft end cap (25) and gasket (24), from left side of transmission case. Avoid damaging end cap gasket unless a new replacement gasket is available. Bend ear of lock washer (74) away from side of countershaft nut (75) and remove nut, lock washer and countershaft lock plate (73). Countershaft (55) can be driven out of case toward left (clutch) side. Countershaft gear assembly can now be withdrawn from transmission case.

Do not misplace end play adjusting washer (72) and roller bearing thrust washer (56). CAUTION: Countershaft gear runs on two ssts roller bearings (57) and (63) one on each end of countershaft. Each set consists of 22 rollers. In removing countershaft gear assembly, be sure all rollers are accounted for and that rollers from each end of gear are wrapped in paper or rag, and marked for end of gear from which they were removed. If any of the rollers are lost, or if rollers from one set become mixed with the other, entire set will have to be discarded and a complete new set fitted, even though old rollers are in good condition. jgf|p4

ft.: | ->: Removing Mainshaft Assembly and , Main Drive Gear Assembly

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 121 and 122)

9. Remove the four bearing housing retaining plate screws (54) and retaining plate (46). Note that starter gear oil deflector (53) is held in place by the upper front screw, and that V-notch in retaining plate is upward and toward the front—see Illus. 119.

If a 3 speed-ieverse transmission, remove idler gear (76) and shaft (77) before proceeding with removal of mainshaft. With retaining plate removed, pull idler gear shaft (77) out of case by threading a l/4"-20 cap screw into end of shaft and grasping screw with pliers.

Drive mainshaft assembly from right side of transmission case with rawhide mallet (or block of wood and hammer) until mainshaft bearing (43) or bearing housing (42) together with bearing, are just free from case. With suitable tool pry lock ring (37) out of groove in mainshaft and slide it onto mainshaft splines. If bearing housing does not come out with bearing, place larger of the two gears (41) against housing, and drive housing out together with mainshaft. To avoid possible damage to transmission case make sure gear is positioned so it does not overlap housing when shaft and housing are being driven out.

After mainshaft is free from main drive gear, shifter clutch (36), lock ring (37), thrust washer (38) and gear (39) can be slipped off mainshaft.

Push main drive gear (18) into case and withdraw it from top. Thrust washer (12), usually comes out with main drive gear. CAUTION: Main drive gear runs in roller bearing (17) consisting of 44 rollers. When removing main drive gear, be sure all rollers are accounted for and wrap them in paper or rag. If any of these rollers are lost, or if rollers from another bearing become mixed with them, the entire set must be discarded and a new set fitted, even though old rollers are in good condition.

Do not remove main drive gear oil seal (15) or main drive gear spacer (13) unless inspection shows them damaged or worn. To renew main drive gear oil seal or main drive gear spacer, see "Renewing Main Drive Gear Oil Seal," Page 144.

10. Miscellaneous transmission case fittings, such as studs, chain adjusting screw, dowel pins, vent nipple and starter crank return spring stud need not be removed unless they require replacement.

Note: The following disassembly operations (11 to 17 inclusive) need not be done, except where inspection shows need for replacing worn or damaged parts.

Removing Mainshaft Gear and Ball Bearing From Mainshaft

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 122)

11. Clamp mainshaft in copper-faced vise jaws. Bend ear of lock washer (44) away from side of bearing lock nut (45) and remove nut and washer.

Bearing and gear can be removed with Harley-Davidson all purpose puller. Part No. 12738-46 or an arbor press.

If using, all purpose puller, insert center adapter (furnished with Harley-Davidson starter clutch and mainshaft ball bearing puller, Part No. 12737-43) in end of shaft to prevent possibility of damaging shaft. Bearing and gear must be removed separately.

If using an arbor press, place the assembly, bearing end upward in press, supported on larger end of mainshaft gear. Insert adapter or %" bolt in end of shaft to push against and push shaft out of bearing (43) and gear (41) by applying pressure to upper end of shaft.

Removing Shifter Cam and Lever Assembly

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 123)

12. Remove shaft set screw (116). Shaft (117) can then be driven out, using a discarded valve as a drift. Set edge of valve head in groove at end of shaft and drive on end of valve stem with a light hammer. Note oil seal (118) assembled in groove at right end of shaft. With shaft removed, shifter cam is free to come out of cover.

Pull cotter pin from shifter lever shaft (109). Shifter lever shaft can then be pulled out of cover, thus freeing gear (113) and spring (112).

Remove plunger adjusting screw (119) and spring (120). Ball (121) is then free to drop out of cover.

Removing Starter Crank

(To Identify Items. Refer to Illus. 120)

13. Clamp crank (18) in vise, bend ear of lock washer (27) away from side of starter crank nut (28) and remove nut and lock washer. Remove starter gear (26) using Harley-Davidson all purpose puller. Part No. 12738-46. If puller is not available, remove starter assembly from vise. Drive starter crank out of starter gear (26) with a rawhide mallet (or hammer and block of wood).

Be sure to hold starter crank and cover in such a manner that starter crank or cover does not swing around when gear or crank is removed.

With starter gear removed, crank can be pulled out of cover. Note: Thrust washer (21) is installed between starter crank spring (19) and cover (25) with chamfered side of washer facing spring.

Removing Clutch Release Lever

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 120)

14. To remove nut and lock washer which secure release lever (1) to squared end of release lever shaft (4). Release lever can then be pulled off of squared end of shaft, using Harley-Davidson all purpose puller. Part No. 12738-46.

Remove cotter pin (10) and plain washer (9) from lower end of release lever shaft. Release lever shaft can then be pulled out of coyer (25), thus freeing release finger (6) andthrust'washer (7).

Mi < '-'m r Removing Countershaft Mounting Collars and Starter Crank Bushings

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 120 and 121)

15. The two steel countershaft mounting collars (6) and (16), in transmission case, and the two bronze starter crank bushings, (22) and (24), in starter cover can be removed by pressing them out with arbor press or driving them out with suitable drift. An oil seal (23) is located between the two starter crank bushings.

Removing Main Drive Gear Outer Bearing Race

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 121)

16. Should outer bearing race (11) need replacing, main drive gear oil seal (15) must be removed first. Use a suitable drift and hammer. Drive the sprocket spacer (13) together with oil seal from left side of transmission case. CAUTION: While driving, precaution must be taken not to allow seal to tip. If seal tips, damage may result to transmission case. Remove bearing race lock ring (10). Heat section of transmission case (not to exceed 300°) around bearing race and it can then be removed easily by pressing out with arbor press or driving out with hammer and block of wood.

Removing Shifter Shaft Bushing

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 123)

17. Thread a 5/8" tap into bushing (111) approximately 1/2". Remove tap temporarily and heat section of cover (not to exceed 300°) around bushing. Replace tap, and with shank of tap held horizontally and securely in vise jaws, tap cover (122) with rawhide mallet or block of wood and hammer. Heat will cause aluminum to expand around bushing, making it comparatively easy to remove.

Inspection of Parts

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 122)

Clean all parts thoroughly and inspect to determine which must be renewed. Check all gears. If teeth are pitted, scored, cracked, chipped or if case hardening is worn through, replace with new gears. If 3 speed or 3 speed-reverse transmission, note particularly the condition of sliding gear (65).

Also inspect all bushings, bearing races and shafts, if bent or worn, renew. If mainshaft ball bearing (43), is worn to the extent that it has appreciable play or shake, renew it.

Give especially close attention to possibly bat tered or rounded condition of shifter clutch engaging dogs and gear engaging dogs or slots.

This condition results from shifting abuses or possibly from poorly adjusted clutch that does not release fully.

Damaged engaging dogs and slots try to creep out of engagement under steady driving load. This creeping action develops tremendous side pressure that finally results in damage in shifting mechanism and all thrust points along shaft assemblies. Therefore, in doing a thorough and dependable transmission overhaul, it is of prime importance that all gears and shifter clutches with badly rounded engaging dogs and slots be replaced with new ones.

ASSEMBLING TRANSMISSION Installing Main Drive Gear Assembly

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 121)

1. To install outer bearing race (11), first, heat case to not over 300 °F. Heating will expand metal slightly and bearing race can be pressed in with less force. Be careful to install race squarely in bore, and make sure race flange is snug against case. Install bearing race retaining ring (10) and make sure it is properly seated in its groove.

Oil seal cork washer (14) and oil seal (15) should not be reinstalled once they have been removed from transmission case. They are very likely to be damaged during removing operation, and if so, oil leakage probably will result. Main drive gear spacer (13) must be installed before installing oil seal cork washer (14) and oil seal (15). See "Renewing Main Drive Gear Oil Seal," Page 144.

Assuming that main drive gear oil seal (15), oil seal cork washer (14) and main drive gear spacer (13) are already assembled in case, install rollers (17) in bearing outer race (11) holding rollers in place with a light coat of heavy grease.

Install main drive gear thrust washer (12) on main drive gear. See Item (12) under "Transmission Assembly—Main Drive Gear Group," Page 131.

Insert main drive gear. Be sure rollers stay in place as gear is entered. Roller bearing clearance should be .0006" to .001" loose.

Install main drive gear spacer key (19) registering longer section of key in a splineway on main drive gear and shorter section of key in slot in outer end of main drive gear spacer (13).

Install sprocket (20) with flat side outward. Install oil deflector (21), sprocket nut lock washer (22) and sprocket lock nut (23). Hold sprocket and tighten nut securely and check main drive gear for endplay. Assembly should have from .005" to .014" end play. (See footnote under "Transmission Assembly—Main Drive Gear Group," Page 131). Bend one ear of lock washer against one side of lock nut.

Installing Mainshaft Assembly

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 122)

2. Assemble following parts onto mainshaft before installing shaft—gear (41), ball bearing hous ing (42), and mainshaft ball bearing (43) assembled, bearing lock washer (44) and lock nut (45), with flat surface of nut inward facing lock washer. Tighten nut securely and bend over one ear of lock washer against one side of nut.

Enter mainshaft into transmission case far enough to install gear (39), thrust washer (38), gear lock ring (37), and mainshaft shifter clutch (36) onto mainshaft. Always install a new gear lock ring and make sure it is properly seated in its groove. Beveled side of mainshaft shifter clutch is stamped "HIGH". Make sure this side faces main- drive gear.

Using a soft hammer or brass drift, tap mainshaft assembly in as far as ball bearing housing will permit. Install retaining plate (46) and oil deflector (53) as shown in Illus. 119. Oil deflector is held by upper, front retaining plate screw. Tighten screws securely.

Note: If 3 speed-reverse transmission, install reverse idler gear (76) and idler gear shaft (77) after installing mainshaft assembly.

Adjusting Countershaft Gear Endplay

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 121 and 122)

3. If countershaft mounting collars (6) and (16) were removed for renewal, press or drive them in from inside of transmission case, making sure collar flanges are snug against case. If case is heated, (not over 300° F.) less force will be required when pressing or driving in collars.

Install rollers (57) and (63) in countershaft gear

(60), holding them in place by means of a light coat of heavy grease. Be sure lock rings (59) and

(61) and bearing retaining washers (58) and (62) are in place before installing rollers. Install bearing thrust washer (56) in its recess in left end of countershaft gear. Install countershaft temporarily to check bearing fit—should be .0006" to .001" loose.

Install countershaft gear in case holding endplay. adjusting washer (72) (right side) in place with heavy grease. Install countershaft (55).

Check endplay with feeler gauge, between endplay adjusting washer and end of countershaft gear. Endplay should be .008" or .012". Increase or decrease endplay as necessary by fitting endplay adjusting washer of required thickness. Washers available in thicknesses of .074", .078", .082", and .085".

After correct countershaft gear endplay has been established, remove countershaft and countershaft gear from case. Set aside adjusting washer selected, to be sure it goes into final assembly.

Installing Countershaft Gear Assembly, Starter Clutch, Sprocket and Speedometer Drive Unit

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 121 and 122)

4. 4-Speed Tiansmission—Install gear bushing (64), gear (65), thrust washer (66), gear lock ring (67) on countershaft gear. Next install shifter clutch (68), thrust washer (69), gear bushing (70) and gear (71) on countershaft gear. Always install a new gear lock ring and make sure it is properly seated in its groove. Items identified with ir not required in 4 •peed transmission.

3 Speed-Reverse Transmission—Install gear (65), thrust washer (69), gear bushing (70) and gear (71). Items identified with 0 not required in 3 speedreverse transmission.

3-Speed Transmission—Install gear (65). Items identified with ©, not required in 3 speed transmission.

Recheck to make sure all rollers and washers are in place in countershaft gear.

Place endplay adjusting washer (72) on end of countershaft gear, holding it in position with heavy grease. Install countershaft gear assembly and end-play adjusting washer, and install countershaft (55) and lock plate (73). Straight edge of lock plate fits against edge of bearing retaining plate (46). Line up shaft so it can be entered in hole in lock plate. Install lock washer (74) and nut (75). Tighten nut securely and bend over one ear of lock washer against one side of nut. Install gasket (24) and countershaft end cap (25) over left "end of countershaft (turned-up edge of cap to outside). Install lock washers (26) and screws (27) and tighten screws securely.

Install starter clutch spring (47) (large end inward), starter mainshaft gear (48), starter clutch keys (50), starter clutch (49), starter clutch nut lock washer (51) and starter clutch nut (52).

By means of shifter clutches, or shifter clutch and sliding gear, engage transmission in two gear positions at the same time, to lock transmission and then securely tighten starter clutch lock nut. Bend edge of lock washer (51) against one side of starter clutch lock nut.

Install speedometer drive assembly (29). Make sure gasket (28) is in place and gears mesh properly. Unit should slide in freely. Install screw (31) and lock washer (30).

Installing Shifter Forks

(To Identity Items, Refer to Illvui. 123)

5. If shifter fork assemblies (85) and (86), or (87), have been disassembled, reassemble in correct order as shown in illustration. Place shifter forks in transmission (fork with narrower opening is for high gear shifter clutch) and install shifter fork shaft (98). Be sure shifter fork bushings are free on shaft. If binding slightly, free by lapping with fine compound. If binding considerably, replace with new bushings. Shifting will be difficult unless bushings work freely on shaft. Be sure rubber oil seal (97) is in groove on left end of shaft. Note that threaded ends of shifter fork bushings (96) and (100) both point outward (away from each other).

Installing Shifter Lever and Shaft and Shifter Cam

(To Identify Items. Refer to Illus. 123)

6. If shifter lever and shaft (109) and/or shifter cam (115) have been removed from cover (122) it is necessary to time shifter lever gear (113) with gear on shifter cam (115).

To install shifter lever shaft bushing (111), press or drive it into top cover, making sure bushing flange is seated snug against cover.

1946 and earlier Models: Install thrust spring (112) and shifter gear (113) in cover, with spring located over gear hub and gear timing mark to outside, facing bushing. Install shifter lever and shaft assembly

(109), entering squared end of shaft into hole in gear, with shifter lever pointing upward and leather washer

(110) between lever and cover bushing. Insert cotter pin in shaft to hold gear.

1947 Models: Install thrust spring (112) and shifter gear (113) in cover with spring located over gear hub and gear timing mark to outside, facing bushing. Install shifter lever and shaft assembly (109), entering squared end of shaft into hole in gear, with shifter lever pointing downward and leather washer (110) between lever and cover bushing. Insert cotter pin in shaft to hold gear.

All Models: Place shifter cam (115) in cover. Register chamfered tooth of shifter cam gear (outer end of one gear tooth is chamfered slightly) with timing mark between two teeth on shifter lever gear. After making sure shifter cam is correctly timed, install shaft (117). Be sure oil seal (118) is in place in wider groove in right end of shaft. Lock shaft in place by means of set screw (116) at left end.

Note: If when installing new shifter cam or new transmission cover, cam is tight endways, file boss in case. If cam has too much endplay, make and install a shim washer of required thickness.

Identifying Shifter Cams:

There are two different types of shifter cams and they can be identified as follows:

Late shifter cams have part number stamped on cam cylinder, whereas cams not stamped with part number can be identified by measuring the distance between edges of cam slots at point where slots are closest to each other.

Shifter cam, Part No. 2243-33—distance between edges of cam slots at closest point is approximately 7/8". This cam applies to following transmissions— 1936—61" O.H.V. Transmission; all 1937 and 1938 Transmissions; 1940 and later 4 Speed Transmissions.

Shifter cam. Part No. 2243-39—distance between edges of cam slots at closest point is approximately 17/32". This cam applies to following transmissions —all 1939 Transmissions; 1940 and later 3 Speed and 3 Speed-Reverse Transmissions.

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