Illus

CLUTCH DISASSEMBLED (1940 AND EARLIER MODELS)

5. Push rod thrust plate.

6. Spring compressing collars (two). See "Footnote."

7. Lock washer for spring tension adjusting nut and also hub nut.

8. Spring tension adjusting nut.

9. Clutch hub nut (left thread).

10. Releasing disc and spring assembly.

11. Spring compression collar.

12. Sprung disc, to smooth clutch engagement.

13. Fibre disc.

14. Plain steel discs (two).

16. Push rod steel washer.

17. Push rod cork oil seal spring.

18. Push rod cork oil seal.

Footnote: Spring compressing collars (G) are not furnished but can be easily made. They are not absolutely necessary to have, but make it possible to compress spring assembly and relieve tension on collar (11), when readjusting nut (8) or removing nut (9). If not available when taking clutch apart as in Illus. 8, turn just the nuts on two studs before removing nut (9). This will keep spring assembly together.

If clutch still does not hold, after making sure of correct control adjustment and increasing spring tension, it will have to be taken apart for inspection of discs. Possibly some of the discs will be found worn, or maybe only oil soaked and in need of washing and drying. See "Disassembling Clutch," this Page, and Page 17, and "Reassembling Clutch," Page 17.

Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension

1941 to 1947 Models

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 9)

If clutch slips, after control has been correctly adjusted, increase spring tension by tightening (turn right) the three nuts (4), after removing chain guard clutch cover and bending away locks (5). See footnote under Illus. 7.

Tighten all three nuts, one-half turn at a time until clutch holds. Test after each half turn by cranking engine. Usually a clutch that holds without any noticeable slippage when cranking engine, also holds on the road.

Do not increase spring tension any more than actually required to make clutch hold. As a new clutch is originally assembled and adjusted, the distance from inner edge of shoulder on spring collar (6) to outer surface of outer disc (8) is 31/32". In any case, do not tighten nuts (4) to the point where inner edge of shoulder on spring collar (6) is closer than 55/64" to surface of outer disc (8). If compressed more, clutch probably cannot be fully released.

If clutch still does not hold, after making sure of correct control adjustment and increasing spring tension, it will have to be taken apart for inspection of discs. Possibly some of the discs will be found worn, or maybe only oil-soaked and in need of washing and drying. See "Disassembling Clutch," this Page, and Page 17, and "Reassembling Clutch," Page 17.

Disassembling Clutch

1940 and Earlier Models

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 8)

Remove outer chain guard. Remove the four nuts and washers that secure push rod thrust plate (5). However, unless springs may need inspection and possibly renewal, it is not necessary to release them. Install two compressing collars (6) or other suitable spacers and nuts on two opposite studs as shown in illustration, and tighten nuts sufficiently to relieve tension on collar (11). Before nut (9) can be tinned, washer (7) will have to be straightened where it is set into slot in collar (11), to lock nut.

After removing nut (9) with Harley-Davidson special wrench, Part No. 12746-36, clutch will come apart as shown in illustration.

To remove clutch shell and sprocket, it is first necessary to remove engine sprocket (see paragraph 20 under "Removing Assembled Engine From Chassis For Complete Overhaul," Page 41). Then front chain and clutch sprocket assembly can be taken off.

Clutch hub with back plate is a taper fit on transmission mainshaft, and can now be removed with Harley-Davidson special puller. Part No. 12749-36.

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