With one test point on "GEN" terminal, and other test point on relay armature, test lamp should light. If it does not, it indicates an open circuit in series (current) coil.
If relay passes above tests, and generator is known to be OX, but points do not close, it is an indication that series coil is grounded, or voltage coil grounded prematurely.
It is not practical to disassemble relay for repairs. A relay worn or damaged beyond adjustment service should be replaced.
Cut-out relay must be grounded; therefore, mounting screws must be tight.
A current and voltage regulator is an electrical device that controls generator output, and is used with two brush generator only. Generator cutout relay, current regulator unit and voltage regulator unit are all mounted on one base.
It is a special regulator as concerns its adjustment for proper regulation of a Harley-Davidson generator. Therefore, a regulator adjusted for an automobile generator cannot be used for regulation of a Harley-Davidson generator, otherwise serious damage to generator will very likely result.
The regulator is properly adjusted at factory when manufactured. Unauthorized persons must never tamper with adjustments as special equipment is required to properly adjust regulator. Under ordinary circumstances regulator will need very little attention in service.
If, however, regulator does need attention it should be referred to United Motor Service (located in many cities throughout the U.S.A.) who is authorized to service Delco-Remy regulators.
The following checks can be made to determine whether or not the units are operating normally. If not, the checks will indicate whether the generator or regulator is at fault, so that proper corrective steps may be taken.
Connect an ammeter between battery positive (left) terminal and regulator terminal marked "BAT".
Fully charged battery and a low charging rate indicates that regulator has reduced output, as it should when operating properly.
Fully charged battery and a high charging rate indicates that regulator is failing to reduce output as it should; due either to a faulty regulator or generator.
High charging rate to a fully charged battery causes battery to gas and overheat, also produces high voltage in the electrical system which may cause armature, coil, breaker point and lamp bulb failure.
To determine if regulator is at fault, disconnect "F" terminal lead at regulator to open generator field circuit. If charge rate drops to zero trouble has been isolated in regulator.
If charging rate continues, generator field circuit is grounded internally, or in wiring harness.
A low battery and a low or no generator charging rate indicates a high resistance in charging circuit, or regulator or generator is faulty.
Check wiring for loose connections or frayed or damaged wires. High resistance resulting from these conditions will prevent normal charge from reaching battery. If wiring is in good condition, then regulator or generator is at fault.
Ground "F" terminal of regulator temporarily and increase generator speed. Avoid excessive speed for any length of time as generator output may be dangerously high and damage to generator may result.
1. If generator output does increase, regulator needs attention.
2. If generator output remains low with "F" terminal grounded, generator is at fault and should be checked further.
3. If generator does not show any output either with or without "F" terminal grounded, disconnect wire from "GEN" terminal of regulator and strike it against a convenient ground with generator operating at medium speed. If a spark does occur, cutout relay is not functioning to permit current to flow to battery. If no spark occurs, generator is at fault and will need further attention. See "When Generator Fails to Charge," Page 96.
CAUTION: It is advisable to "flash" field coils whenever wires have been removed from generator or regulator; or after generator or battery has been removed and is reinstalled. This is done to make sure generator has correct polarity. If polarity of generator is reversed, relay points will vibrate and burn. "Flash" field coils by momentarily touching a jumper wire between "BAT" terminal and "GEN" terminal on regulator, after all wires have been properly connected and before starting engine. The momentary surge of current from battery to generator will correctly polarize generator.
Care of Storage Battery
It is the care given a battery, rather than time and miles in service, that has most to do with determining its life. Don't neglect it.
1. Inspect battery every week. Add pure distilled water as often as necessary to keep solution above the plates. See "Adding Water to Battery," Page 107.
2. Remove battery and have it given a charge from an outside source, when the hydrometer shows that this attention is needed. Allowing battery to remain in a discharged condition for any length of time shortens its life. A fully charged battery has a specific gravity reading of 1.275 or above; a discharged battery has a specific gravity reading of about 1.150.
It is especially important that battery be kept well charged in below freezing weather as a low or discharged battery is very likely to be frozen and ruined.
3. Keep battery clean, and terminal connections tight. Oil the terminal felt washers frequently and replace immediately if deteriorated or lost.
When charging a battery from an outside source, the charging rate is constant and should not be allowed to go over 2 amperes. A higher rate will heat and damage the battery. CAUTION—Therefore, don't allow battery to be charged in the same line with automobile batteries, at a high charge rate or allow battery to be charged on a "guick" charger.
Adding Water to Battery
Motorcycle should be standing straight up, not leaning on jiffy stand, when adding water to battery.
Turn off wing nuts, and remove battery cover and rubber mat. Take out the three screw-in filler plugs, and with a hydrometer or syringe add enough water to each cell to raise the level of the solution about 5/16" above the plates and separators.
CAUTION: If battery is filled to a higher level, some of the solution will be forced out through vent holes when battery is charging. This not only weakens battery solution but also damages parts near battery.
When hard starting or missing indicates some fault in the ignition system, the first thing to do is check condition of battery. Coil will not function normally with battery in a nearly discharged condition. If it is found that lamps light with full brilliancy and horn blows, indicating that battery is in at least fair condition, try new spark plugs. If new plugs do not correct performance, inspect circuit breaker points and install new condenser. If the fault still exists, try a new coil without removing old coil. Simply attach new coil temporarily at any convenient point near old coil (coil will function without being securely grounded), transfer terminal wires to new coil, and after detaching old coil plug cables from spark plugs, attach new coil cables.
If new coil corrects performance, proving that the fault is in the old coil, inspect plug cables for cracked or damaged insulation, particularly at sealing nuts where cables enter coil. The insulation on cables sometimes becomes cracked or otherwise damaged, allowing high tension current to short to metal parts with which cables come in contact. Trouble due to this condition is most noticeable when operating in wet weather or just after motorcycle has been washed.
Replacing plug cables is the only repair that can be made to an ignition coil. If faulty performance is not corrected by installing new cables, coil is beyond repair and must be replaced with a new one.
Replacing Spark Plug Cables (Standard Type Coil)
When inspection indicates that coil trouble is very likely due to faulty condition of plug cables, they can be replaced as follows: Warm coil slightly to soften sealing compound so old cables can be pulled out easily, and without breakage. The usual way to warm a coil is to flow current through it by either turning "ON" ignition switch, or connecting a battery to coil terminals. This generates heat in coil winding. Have new cables ready to be inserted immediately when old cables are pulled out. New cable ends that insert into coil should be trimmed and rounded so they will follow through the holes left in sealing compound by old cable without catching and jamming. After coil is warm (not hot) turn off cable seal nuts and pull out cables one at a time. As each cable is pulled out, quickly transfer nut, steel washer and rubber packing washer to new cable. Insert a piece of stiff wire into coil and measure the distance from coil end to cable seat. Mark new cable accordingly. Dip end of cable in very light oil or gasoline and push into coil. Be sure it is pushed all the way into its seat as per mark made on cable. After cables are inserted, turn seal nuts down against rubber packing washers to secure cables and to prevent water from getting inside coil.
When replacing plug cables do not heat coil to a higher degree than just warm as doing so will soften sealing compound to the extent that cable holes through compound will close up as the old cables are pulled out, blocking the insertion of new cables. In this case it is necessary to allow coil to cool and then form new cable holes by means of a piece of tubing with saw teeth filed in one end. Tubing should be of slightly larger diameter than cable. Holes through compound must be open so cables can be inserted all the way to their seats, where they contact high tension winding terminals; otherwise there is a gap in the high tension circuit and coil will not function.
Replacing Spark Plug Cables (Radio Type Coil)
Metallic shielding must be removed before removing plug cables. Plug cables are installed in coil in the same manner as standard plug cables. Metallic shielding is to be installed as follows: Push shielding over plug cable until coupling nut engages threaded bushing on coil and tighten nut securely. The opposite end of metallic shielding has a flanged end and a knurled nut. Measuring from edge of flange, the plug cable should protrude exactly one inch. If wire extends more than one inch, cut off surplus (no trimming or removal of insulation on end of cable is necessary; merely cut wire to required length).
Attach bakelite insulator to end of shielding by inserting protruding end of plug cable into hole in insulator and then pushing insulator toward coupling nut. A pin centrally located in insulator will contact plug cable wire as insulator is assembled to cable. Tighten coupling nut s?curely. Shielded cable assembly is now ready for assembly to spark plug.
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